The three Aran islands, from left to right Inisheer, Inishmann and Inishmore,
as seen from the village of Fanore. If this was a movie, you would see their light
houses winking on and off. |
One hundred years ago John M. Synge wrote 'The
Aran Islands' which became a classic of Irish literature. He painted a vivid picture
of the life on Inishmann. Synge came here to learn Gaelic, as these islands and
adjacent Connemara, are the places Gaelic survived as a first language.
The
house where Synge stayed is a museum now. This is me sitting on its foundation wall.
It is typical of the old cottages of Ireland, though now thatch is not common.
An old woman, just as described in Synge's book, walks down to the
post office. She wears a heavy black coat and bright woven shawl over a bright red wool
dress, but with Nikes on her feet instead of the rawhide "pampooties", pieces of
sea-wet skins tied to the feet, once worn to give grip on the wet rock. |
Ferries sail to the islands, but not too
often and very slowly. We travelled to Inishmann by Britten-Norman Islander, a very exciting small plane ride of just
a few minutes.
The first thing you notice - it is a very small
island. The second thing is that it is divided by stone walls into hundreds and
thousands of very small fields.
The neat fields behind their neat walls. Too neat? It gave
me a strange uneasy feeling, wandering among the narrow winding stone walls with
only the occasional glimpse of yet another tiny field. I would nominate this place
as "least like Saskatchewan" of anywheres.
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